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View Full Version : HOW MUCH OIL IN MY FORKS



Joseph McCamish
02-01-2003, 02:37 PM
I am changing my fork seals and need to know how much oil and what is the best kind to use for this jod. and if you can tell me in a way that you dont have to stick in a ruler.. maybe by ml...

Joseph McCamish
02-01-2003, 02:37 PM
I am changing my fork seals and need to know how much oil and what is the best kind to use for this jod. and if you can tell me in a way that you dont have to stick in a ruler.. maybe by ml...

Rich Desmond
02-02-2003, 12:40 AM
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Originally posted by JOSEPH MCCAMISH:
I am changing my fork seals and need to know how much oil and what is the best kind to use for this jod. and if you can tell me in a way that you dont have to stick in a ruler.. maybe by ml...</div></div>Uh, a little more info might help, like what kind of bike??? And, I hate to sound harsh, but if using a ruler is too hard maybe this is something you should let someone else do?? :rolleyes:

Rich Desmond
02-02-2003, 12:40 AM
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Originally posted by JOSEPH MCCAMISH:
I am changing my fork seals and need to know how much oil and what is the best kind to use for this jod. and if you can tell me in a way that you dont have to stick in a ruler.. maybe by ml...</div></div>Uh, a little more info might help, like what kind of bike??? And, I hate to sound harsh, but if using a ruler is too hard maybe this is something you should let someone else do?? :rolleyes:

cedestech
02-02-2003, 08:34 AM
Billy Weiss or any propper scooter shop
will do it for you for less then $100 plus
parts.

If you don't have a manual and don't know what your dooing it's not a good time to start.

Saftey first!

cedestech
02-02-2003, 08:34 AM
Billy Weiss or any propper scooter shop
will do it for you for less then $100 plus
parts.

If you don't have a manual and don't know what your dooing it's not a good time to start.

Saftey first!

Eric Kancir
02-02-2003, 09:35 AM
You can call your local dealer and ask them for the cc amount in each fork leg.

Eric Kancir
02-02-2003, 09:35 AM
You can call your local dealer and ask them for the cc amount in each fork leg.

Joseph McCamish
02-02-2003, 08:36 PM
Sorry the bike is a 00 r6...

Joseph McCamish
02-02-2003, 08:36 PM
Sorry the bike is a 00 r6...

Chris Headley
02-14-2003, 08:31 PM
Joseph,
The Yamaha specification is 107mm. That is the distance from the top of the fork tube to the top of the oil. So, basically, that's 107mm of air. Start with 107 and play with it from there if you like. The best way to measure this accurately is to use a special tool that makes it really easy. It's about $30, or just borrow one from somebody.

Chris Headley
02-14-2003, 08:31 PM
Joseph,
The Yamaha specification is 107mm. That is the distance from the top of the fork tube to the top of the oil. So, basically, that's 107mm of air. Start with 107 and play with it from there if you like. The best way to measure this accurately is to use a special tool that makes it really easy. It's about $30, or just borrow one from somebody.

Michael Hamric
02-14-2003, 09:34 PM
The R6 shop manual says 476ml = 107mm from the top with the fork leg fully compressed. Of course, if you do not have stock valves/shims the recommended volume and level will be different. You may want to contact Pete Martins (281)375-7884 or some other suspension "guru" for your specific application.

Good luck! MH

Michael Hamric
02-14-2003, 09:34 PM
The R6 shop manual says 476ml = 107mm from the top with the fork leg fully compressed. Of course, if you do not have stock valves/shims the recommended volume and level will be different. You may want to contact Pete Martins (281)375-7884 or some other suspension "guru" for your specific application.

Good luck! MH

Joseph McCamish
02-16-2003, 12:50 AM
Hey thanks alot guys..

Joseph McCamish
02-16-2003, 12:50 AM
Hey thanks alot guys..

UglyR6
02-16-2003, 03:40 AM
16.09356 ounces.

UglyR6
02-16-2003, 03:40 AM
16.09356 ounces.

Steve Breen
03-09-2003, 10:30 AM
Yeah, what Headley said ... don't forget that 107mm measurement is (like Chris said) fully compressed without springs.

Steve Breen
03-09-2003, 10:30 AM
Yeah, what Headley said ... don't forget that 107mm measurement is (like Chris said) fully compressed without springs.

UglyR6
03-11-2003, 05:02 PM
you probably already have this taken care of by now but i'll throw in something else to the mix.
i just replaced the fork oil Sunday.

when taking that measurement, the manual isnt clear in it's words how to do this. the position of the damper rod (extended or not extended) will make the fork oil fluctuate quite a bit. if looking at the picture it shows the damper rod is at the same height as the top of the inner fork tube.
it says the fork should be fully compressed, but the picture shows the damper rod at the same height as the top of the fork tube (when the fork is compressed) and when the damper rod is fully compressed it will be about 2 inches below the top of the tube. something to think about. sorry if this is confusing.
i ended up putting in 16 ounces and having to back out just a tiny bit....probably because there may have been some remaining oil in there already. maybe a tablespoon.
took it for a ride and it feels good. and if it feels good....do it! /ubbthreads/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

UglyR6
03-11-2003, 05:02 PM
you probably already have this taken care of by now but i'll throw in something else to the mix.
i just replaced the fork oil Sunday.

when taking that measurement, the manual isnt clear in it's words how to do this. the position of the damper rod (extended or not extended) will make the fork oil fluctuate quite a bit. if looking at the picture it shows the damper rod is at the same height as the top of the inner fork tube.
it says the fork should be fully compressed, but the picture shows the damper rod at the same height as the top of the fork tube (when the fork is compressed) and when the damper rod is fully compressed it will be about 2 inches below the top of the tube. something to think about. sorry if this is confusing.
i ended up putting in 16 ounces and having to back out just a tiny bit....probably because there may have been some remaining oil in there already. maybe a tablespoon.
took it for a ride and it feels good. and if it feels good....do it! /ubbthreads/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

Joseph McCamish
03-11-2003, 05:31 PM
Rick, thanks alot a big big help...

Joseph McCamish
03-11-2003, 05:31 PM
Rick, thanks alot a big big help...

marcus mcbain
03-11-2003, 06:35 PM
Let me really screw your day up.

If you have had your forks redone, the damping units usually take up different volume than stock. So going by capacity (ounces) is never a good idea (esp. in this case). Because there is a hydraulic effect corresponding to the fork oil level, USE A Calibrated measuring device.

For anyone else that is reading this, DON'T Spend 420.00 to do the work yourself. (WHAT!!! YOU SAY!!!).

Well, it costs about 150.00 for the proper spring compression device to put your fork caps back on. Then you will spend another 150.00 to get the proper vice to polish the lower fork legs so you can eliminate stiction. Next, you will spend 20.00 on quality fork oil. THEN YOU have to pay $$$ to get someone to put the forks back together properly, because if you truly changed the oil, you took the damping units apart, and it ain't easy putting them back together.

Just like most people don't take shocks off their car and try to rebuild them, this is not a good idea either if you DON'T KNOW EXACTLY WHAT YOU ARE DOING.

Good Luck,
Marcus

marcus mcbain
03-11-2003, 06:35 PM
Let me really screw your day up.

If you have had your forks redone, the damping units usually take up different volume than stock. So going by capacity (ounces) is never a good idea (esp. in this case). Because there is a hydraulic effect corresponding to the fork oil level, USE A Calibrated measuring device.

For anyone else that is reading this, DON'T Spend 420.00 to do the work yourself. (WHAT!!! YOU SAY!!!).

Well, it costs about 150.00 for the proper spring compression device to put your fork caps back on. Then you will spend another 150.00 to get the proper vice to polish the lower fork legs so you can eliminate stiction. Next, you will spend 20.00 on quality fork oil. THEN YOU have to pay $$$ to get someone to put the forks back together properly, because if you truly changed the oil, you took the damping units apart, and it ain't easy putting them back together.

Just like most people don't take shocks off their car and try to rebuild them, this is not a good idea either if you DON'T KNOW EXACTLY WHAT YOU ARE DOING.

Good Luck,
Marcus