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Mark Delano
05-26-2003, 10:44 PM
would any care to share there thoughts on rigid foot pegs and folding foot pegs which is prefered by most everybody pros and cons of both
the reasons im asking i had a crash in race 5 this weekend after getting a little to close over the curbing in turn 5 my left foot peg hit the curb unweighting the tires and pitched it away i am thinking if i had folding pegs that i would of had a better chance of saving it
thanks for any comments
mark delano # 517

i guess one solution would be stay off the curbs

Mark Delano
05-26-2003, 10:44 PM
would any care to share there thoughts on rigid foot pegs and folding foot pegs which is prefered by most everybody pros and cons of both
the reasons im asking i had a crash in race 5 this weekend after getting a little to close over the curbing in turn 5 my left foot peg hit the curb unweighting the tires and pitched it away i am thinking if i had folding pegs that i would of had a better chance of saving it
thanks for any comments
mark delano # 517

i guess one solution would be stay off the curbs

ysr612
05-26-2003, 11:22 PM
there was an article in rrw couple of years back how solids are safer. Now you tell me they are not. they are still cheaper.

ysr612
05-26-2003, 11:22 PM
there was an article in rrw couple of years back how solids are safer. Now you tell me they are not. they are still cheaper.

Nohl Haeckel
05-27-2003, 09:22 AM
When you do through the bike away it tend to be a little less damaging to other parts of the bike... always budgeting

Nohl Haeckel
05-27-2003, 09:22 AM
When you do through the bike away it tend to be a little less damaging to other parts of the bike... always budgeting

SMILEYMAN
05-27-2003, 09:28 AM
Mark, I had a solid peg dig into a curb at TWS last year. Ouch! However, the advantages of solid pegs outweigh (for me)the added caution over curbs. With most typical lowsides the solid peg and hopefully the frame saver will keep the expensive stuff from touching the asphalt. For example Pipes, bars, cases, steering dampers, body work and bracketry. The easy lowside damage(pegs, bar ends, levers) can be replaced quickly for endurance purposes and the money saved on body work and other hard parts can go towards those spares.
You do have to find a comfortable style to avoid contact with the solid pegs. Caution over curbs (I try and place my knee on the inside of the curb) and I ride with my toe slider just on the tip of the inside peg so you know the ground is there with a 1/4 inch or so to spare. Pro's use solid mount pegs that are much shorter and sometimes designed to break away on hard contact (leaving a stub to continue on) for clearance purposes. Smiley

SMILEYMAN
05-27-2003, 09:28 AM
Mark, I had a solid peg dig into a curb at TWS last year. Ouch! However, the advantages of solid pegs outweigh (for me)the added caution over curbs. With most typical lowsides the solid peg and hopefully the frame saver will keep the expensive stuff from touching the asphalt. For example Pipes, bars, cases, steering dampers, body work and bracketry. The easy lowside damage(pegs, bar ends, levers) can be replaced quickly for endurance purposes and the money saved on body work and other hard parts can go towards those spares.
You do have to find a comfortable style to avoid contact with the solid pegs. Caution over curbs (I try and place my knee on the inside of the curb) and I ride with my toe slider just on the tip of the inside peg so you know the ground is there with a 1/4 inch or so to spare. Pro's use solid mount pegs that are much shorter and sometimes designed to break away on hard contact (leaving a stub to continue on) for clearance purposes. Smiley

marcus mcbain
05-28-2003, 11:53 PM
I have always tried to use folding for several reasons. If you have frame savers, then you probably don't need the solid pegs (if you are counting on the solid pegs to protect the bike). On the newer sportbikes, the rearset mounts are weak and break easily which another problem unto itself.

Many riders prefer the VERY solid feel of solid mount pegs, so that is something to consider.

The few times I have crashed the last few year, I Have not broken a footpeg/mount with folding pegs and frame savers. (I did destroy one frame at NPR /ubbthreads/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif )

Marcus

marcus mcbain
05-28-2003, 11:53 PM
I have always tried to use folding for several reasons. If you have frame savers, then you probably don't need the solid pegs (if you are counting on the solid pegs to protect the bike). On the newer sportbikes, the rearset mounts are weak and break easily which another problem unto itself.

Many riders prefer the VERY solid feel of solid mount pegs, so that is something to consider.

The few times I have crashed the last few year, I Have not broken a footpeg/mount with folding pegs and frame savers. (I did destroy one frame at NPR /ubbthreads/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif )

Marcus

Brooks Gremmels
06-03-2003, 05:32 PM
I am certainly not familiar with every race team on the national circuits but I know of none of them that use folding pegs. I can name a dozen that use solid ones though. The factory bikes I have bought (Hacking and Hayden) both had solid pegs. For the reasons that Smiley and Marcus listed.
Brooks

Brooks Gremmels
06-03-2003, 05:32 PM
I am certainly not familiar with every race team on the national circuits but I know of none of them that use folding pegs. I can name a dozen that use solid ones though. The factory bikes I have bought (Hacking and Hayden) both had solid pegs. For the reasons that Smiley and Marcus listed.
Brooks

jonlampert
06-03-2003, 08:02 PM
I don't care much for the rigid pegs anymore. On my bike they don't crash very well. I've crashed 5 times this year and everytime I went down, the rearset (CFM) got all bent up and the toe-piece on the shifter broke off along with the end of the shifter (also CFM parts). My last crash wore down half the length of the footpeg, too. The bike did slide quite a ways on the pavement so that's to be expected, I guess.

I'm going to try some folding pegs for the next race. In addition to adding the folding pegs, I'm going to try to find some aluminum bolts to attach the toe-piece. My theory here is that the aluminum bolt will break off and prevent the shifter from getting broken and bent.

jonlampert
06-03-2003, 08:02 PM
I don't care much for the rigid pegs anymore. On my bike they don't crash very well. I've crashed 5 times this year and everytime I went down, the rearset (CFM) got all bent up and the toe-piece on the shifter broke off along with the end of the shifter (also CFM parts). My last crash wore down half the length of the footpeg, too. The bike did slide quite a ways on the pavement so that's to be expected, I guess.

I'm going to try some folding pegs for the next race. In addition to adding the folding pegs, I'm going to try to find some aluminum bolts to attach the toe-piece. My theory here is that the aluminum bolt will break off and prevent the shifter from getting broken and bent.

ysr612
06-03-2003, 09:12 PM
your AL bolt theory is not right and if it were you would have to extract the rest of the bolt. the shifter will still be weaker then the bolt in shear.

ysr612
06-03-2003, 09:12 PM
your AL bolt theory is not right and if it were you would have to extract the rest of the bolt. the shifter will still be weaker then the bolt in shear.

jonlampert
06-03-2003, 10:11 PM
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Originally posted by Glen Weir, ysr612:
your AL bolt theory is not right and if it were you would have to extract the rest of the bolt. the shifter will still be weaker then the bolt in shear.</div></div>Here's a pic of what happens:
http://home.attbi.com/~cmra317am/104_0492.jpg

My aluminum bolt theory is totally right, as long as an appropriately low strength aluminum bolt can be found. The bolt will be weaker than the shifter in this case. If the bolt were to break instead of the shift lever, I would only have to replace the toe-piece. There would be no need to extract the rest of the bolt because it would be with the toe-piece, which would be lost somewhere on the side of the track. Basically I am sacrificing the toe-piece. As is stands right now, I lose the toe-piece and end up with a broken shift lever. I'm just trying to find a way to prevent the broken shift lever.

jonlampert
06-03-2003, 10:11 PM
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Originally posted by Glen Weir, ysr612:
your AL bolt theory is not right and if it were you would have to extract the rest of the bolt. the shifter will still be weaker then the bolt in shear.</div></div>Here's a pic of what happens:
http://home.attbi.com/~cmra317am/104_0492.jpg

My aluminum bolt theory is totally right, as long as an appropriately low strength aluminum bolt can be found. The bolt will be weaker than the shifter in this case. If the bolt were to break instead of the shift lever, I would only have to replace the toe-piece. There would be no need to extract the rest of the bolt because it would be with the toe-piece, which would be lost somewhere on the side of the track. Basically I am sacrificing the toe-piece. As is stands right now, I lose the toe-piece and end up with a broken shift lever. I'm just trying to find a way to prevent the broken shift lever.

Daniel Browning
06-04-2003, 12:55 AM
No Im with glen.. its not gonna work.. folding pegs may keep you from breaking pegs.. but if you use AL bolts with solid pegs they will still just snap the heads and leave you searching the pits for a bolt extractor.. If you used plastic bolts you might save the peg... but then it would break when you weight that outside peg.. if its THAT big of a problem you really should use stock folding pegs.. they are the cheapest to replace, and I dont think they will hurt your lap times much.. /ubbthreads/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif I think your counting on the fact that the leverage on the bolt will be greater than the footpeg since its further in.. but its torqued down more than the footpeg.. so the footpeg has more play and will still break first.

Daniel Browning
06-04-2003, 12:55 AM
No Im with glen.. its not gonna work.. folding pegs may keep you from breaking pegs.. but if you use AL bolts with solid pegs they will still just snap the heads and leave you searching the pits for a bolt extractor.. If you used plastic bolts you might save the peg... but then it would break when you weight that outside peg.. if its THAT big of a problem you really should use stock folding pegs.. they are the cheapest to replace, and I dont think they will hurt your lap times much.. /ubbthreads/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif I think your counting on the fact that the leverage on the bolt will be greater than the footpeg since its further in.. but its torqued down more than the footpeg.. so the footpeg has more play and will still break first.

Mathew Wise
06-04-2003, 02:04 AM
Daniel, you are right about the aluminum bolt on the peg. I think what John means to do, though, is put an aluminum bolt in the toe peice. The CFM levers are made up of three peices, and the toe piece is removable for replacement. Will it work? I really don't know, but its worth a try. let me know what you figure out, John.

Mathew Wise
06-04-2003, 02:04 AM
Daniel, you are right about the aluminum bolt on the peg. I think what John means to do, though, is put an aluminum bolt in the toe peice. The CFM levers are made up of three peices, and the toe piece is removable for replacement. Will it work? I really don't know, but its worth a try. let me know what you figure out, John.

ysr612
06-04-2003, 07:21 AM
get that piece welded up have you talked to Mark about it. I used alpha metal AL solder for a similar thing on a kx and it worked well.

ps stop crashing.

ysr612
06-04-2003, 07:21 AM
get that piece welded up have you talked to Mark about it. I used alpha metal AL solder for a similar thing on a kx and it worked well.

ps stop crashing.

Daniel Browning
06-04-2003, 09:22 AM
gotcha.. thanks matt..

Daniel Browning
06-04-2003, 09:22 AM
gotcha.. thanks matt..

jonlampert
06-04-2003, 01:34 PM
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Originally posted by Glen Weir, ysr612:
get that piece welded up have you talked to Mark about it. I used alpha metal AL solder for a similar thing on a kx and it worked well.

ps stop crashing.</div></div>I have a TIG welder and have been welding a 1/2" piece of round stock on to replace the toe piece. It's definitely cheaper than buying a replacement shift lever.

What Matt said earlier is correct. The only place I am considering using the low strength bolt is on the toe-piece, not on the foot peg.

The ultimate solution to my problem is exactly what Glen stated above: STOP CRASHING!!! I am going to work my hardest to implement that solution first. The folding pegs and aluminum bolts are my back up plan.

jonlampert
06-04-2003, 01:34 PM
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Originally posted by Glen Weir, ysr612:
get that piece welded up have you talked to Mark about it. I used alpha metal AL solder for a similar thing on a kx and it worked well.

ps stop crashing.</div></div>I have a TIG welder and have been welding a 1/2" piece of round stock on to replace the toe piece. It's definitely cheaper than buying a replacement shift lever.

What Matt said earlier is correct. The only place I am considering using the low strength bolt is on the toe-piece, not on the foot peg.

The ultimate solution to my problem is exactly what Glen stated above: STOP CRASHING!!! I am going to work my hardest to implement that solution first. The folding pegs and aluminum bolts are my back up plan.

jonlampert
06-06-2003, 11:33 PM
The rearset mounts on the SV frame are pretty stout. I have seen a certain GSXR-750 with a twice repaired rearset mount, though.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Originally posted by Marcus McBain:
I have always tried to use folding for several reasons...On the newer sportbikes, the rearset mounts are weak and break easily which another problem unto itself.</div></div>

jonlampert
06-06-2003, 11:33 PM
The rearset mounts on the SV frame are pretty stout. I have seen a certain GSXR-750 with a twice repaired rearset mount, though.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Originally posted by Marcus McBain:
I have always tried to use folding for several reasons...On the newer sportbikes, the rearset mounts are weak and break easily which another problem unto itself.</div></div>